Sunday, May 30, 2010
namche to pakding
5 hours of walking...we were all getting bitchy....we were sick of the food, I couldn't stomach another egg, we were dirty and cold. Ok that's the bad news....the good news is that I was still happy to be in the himalayas and felt so lucky to have been literally dumped with 7 people I didn't know...only to make some really lasting friendships...Team Yak attack ROCKS!!
periche to namche in one day
We decided as a group to walk from Periche back to Namche Bazar in one day...8 hours. Can I just say we walked for 9 and coming down is quite similar to going up. What the Nepalis call the "Nepal flats" are in fact mountain side paths that go up and down, up and down...very little flat. Tina and I were done...we had 20 minutes to go and it took us an hour...glad to get to our little Namche. We had dinner...did some browsing, I bought my scarf map:) and to bed we went....
Kala Pathar is hard
5am May 25th...I am in the dining hall with Marcos, Renee (reney), Sarah and Kristen (krishna) waiting for the others. Its an early morning climb and I am ready. We decided to go and let the others catch up. Kala Pathar (KP) was an optional climb on our itinerary to see the sun rise at 5540m. So we set out..the others ahead...Marcos pretty much running and Sarah close behind. Krishna and up taking up the back. From the beginning it was rough...if it had been any more straight up we would have needed ropes and crampons. About a quarter or less of the way up, I looked back and Krishna had stopped. She said she was feeling crappy and I told her to take her time and I moved on. The next time I looked behind she wasn't there and one of the guides said Tina had come up and they had both gone down. Krishna was not well and it was Tina's 40th b-day...so why the hell would she want to do this brutal climb when it was finally the time in her life to do what the fuck she wanted to!
The climb was hard, the climb was hard, the climb was hard. My legs were heavy from hypoxia, my nail beds were blue from hypoxia, my heart rate was about 140 and resp rate about 40....dammit I wanted to turn around...so many times I wanted to turn around. I don't know...something inside me, a strength I didn't know I had pushed me...I was taking 5 steps and resting, 5 steps and resting. After 2 and a half hours I made the summit where Marcos, Renee and Sarah were waiting....I had done it...I had summited a Himalyan peak! We took some pics and saw Everest rising before us perfectly at 740am. Down was hard too...took me at least 90 minutes.
We got back to the lodge at Gorak Shep to find that our head guide Shankur had sent Gareth, Kristen, Tina and Jen down to Periche to get Gareth to a lower altitude and maybe seek medical attention....a 5 hour walk. We had breakfast, packed up and off we went...Sarah and Marcos ahead and Reney and I making our way. The five hours down rock falls and river beds went from sunny to cloudy to raining...pouring. I had my gortex on and a pack cover but was so tired I couldn't be bothered to take my rain pants out of my pack....by the time we got to Periche...soaked. I sat for a minute, and I couldn't get up....my legs were done. I hobbled down the hill to an internet cafe to update my facebook status and went back. ate dinner and bed.
Kala Pathar was hard.
PS My Whalian friend Gareth was feeling much better:)
The climb was hard, the climb was hard, the climb was hard. My legs were heavy from hypoxia, my nail beds were blue from hypoxia, my heart rate was about 140 and resp rate about 40....dammit I wanted to turn around...so many times I wanted to turn around. I don't know...something inside me, a strength I didn't know I had pushed me...I was taking 5 steps and resting, 5 steps and resting. After 2 and a half hours I made the summit where Marcos, Renee and Sarah were waiting....I had done it...I had summited a Himalyan peak! We took some pics and saw Everest rising before us perfectly at 740am. Down was hard too...took me at least 90 minutes.
We got back to the lodge at Gorak Shep to find that our head guide Shankur had sent Gareth, Kristen, Tina and Jen down to Periche to get Gareth to a lower altitude and maybe seek medical attention....a 5 hour walk. We had breakfast, packed up and off we went...Sarah and Marcos ahead and Reney and I making our way. The five hours down rock falls and river beds went from sunny to cloudy to raining...pouring. I had my gortex on and a pack cover but was so tired I couldn't be bothered to take my rain pants out of my pack....by the time we got to Periche...soaked. I sat for a minute, and I couldn't get up....my legs were done. I hobbled down the hill to an internet cafe to update my facebook status and went back. ate dinner and bed.
Kala Pathar was hard.
PS My Whalian friend Gareth was feeling much better:)
1 whistle for yak attack, 2 whistles for yeti attack
Ok so....I am backtracking a bit here...and its hard....I don't know maybe you get some sort of altitude induced amnesia but I have lost bits and pieces. Where we were at this point I couldn't even remember where we had woken up the day before so bear with:)
I awoke in Lobuche to looking out my window to snow on the tin roof..mmmm...ok then. We had breakfast, my usual of porridge and boiled eggs and milk coffee. I put my gaiters on (I didn't even know what they were til the trek!)....had 2 pairs of long johns and pants and 4 layers on top. It was snowing...probably about 5 cm on the ground already. We walked up through what I would call "rock falls"...rocks ranging from regular rock size to the size of a firetruck. Gareth was unwell, the altitude was getting to him and I had given him a shot of maxeran the night before (I think). He is a tough "Whalian" though:) After climbing and climbing to the top of one of these giant rock waterfalls we came to a memorial to climbers and sherpas who had lost their lives in summit attempts...there were probably around 30 memorials spread out. I found the memorial to Scott Fisher, one of the expedition leaders who lost his life in the 1996 disaster on Everest and tied a prayer flag to the many already waving in the wind. Quite a moment for me. It was snowing wet snow and eventually we were trudging through maybe 10cm all morning til we arrived at Gorak Shep. We had lunch, put our duffles in our rooms and got prepared for the final ascent to Everest Base Camp.
The snow was still there but melting a bit as the sun climbed although it was cloudy. We walked through rocky river beds and around mountain paths until we saw the camp in the distance...the yellow and orange tents of EBC. Gareth was still unwell, vomiting along the way. But this trek is not for the weak and the Himalayas are unforgiving...like I said, he is a tough, but sweet Whalian and he knew that if he stopped we would go on without him...that's just the way of the Himalayas. I knew that we were on the final ascent into BC, so I turned the video on and HERE WE WERE....Everest Base Camp!!!...May 24 around 1515. To some it may be a little anticlimactic but for me this was IT!!! There was a big rock with a sign saying Everest Base Camp with a zillion prayer flags blowing in the wind and I added mine. I could see the tents in the distance and Khombu icefall below me, and a foggy area in the distance where the climbers started. The icefall has taken many in it were tragedy has struck and I thought of those people as I looked down. We could hear the glacier shifting and avalanches high above us...one never forgets a sound like that. It was just like I had read, and beyond words. The sun had come out for us and we were the only group there...the holy mountain was welcoming us! We were surrounded by the mighty Himalayas...what a sight. We were at 5364m, and each and every one of us had a smile. Gareth stepped away from his nausea for a few minutes and stripped naked to run through camp...it was planned but I think I was the only one who believed he would do it....I had 2 cameras ready to go:)
We didn't go to the tents as it was about another 30-60 minute hike, and we were limited in time...light was fading and you DO NOT want to be caught in the dark finding your way back to your lodge. We took pictures and took in what we would probably never see for ourselves again and what few have ever seen.
Down we went, had dinner, and went to bed preparing for a 5am "optional" departure for Kala Pathar....a "small" Himalayan peak.
I awoke in Lobuche to looking out my window to snow on the tin roof..mmmm...ok then. We had breakfast, my usual of porridge and boiled eggs and milk coffee. I put my gaiters on (I didn't even know what they were til the trek!)....had 2 pairs of long johns and pants and 4 layers on top. It was snowing...probably about 5 cm on the ground already. We walked up through what I would call "rock falls"...rocks ranging from regular rock size to the size of a firetruck. Gareth was unwell, the altitude was getting to him and I had given him a shot of maxeran the night before (I think). He is a tough "Whalian" though:) After climbing and climbing to the top of one of these giant rock waterfalls we came to a memorial to climbers and sherpas who had lost their lives in summit attempts...there were probably around 30 memorials spread out. I found the memorial to Scott Fisher, one of the expedition leaders who lost his life in the 1996 disaster on Everest and tied a prayer flag to the many already waving in the wind. Quite a moment for me. It was snowing wet snow and eventually we were trudging through maybe 10cm all morning til we arrived at Gorak Shep. We had lunch, put our duffles in our rooms and got prepared for the final ascent to Everest Base Camp.
The snow was still there but melting a bit as the sun climbed although it was cloudy. We walked through rocky river beds and around mountain paths until we saw the camp in the distance...the yellow and orange tents of EBC. Gareth was still unwell, vomiting along the way. But this trek is not for the weak and the Himalayas are unforgiving...like I said, he is a tough, but sweet Whalian and he knew that if he stopped we would go on without him...that's just the way of the Himalayas. I knew that we were on the final ascent into BC, so I turned the video on and HERE WE WERE....Everest Base Camp!!!...May 24 around 1515. To some it may be a little anticlimactic but for me this was IT!!! There was a big rock with a sign saying Everest Base Camp with a zillion prayer flags blowing in the wind and I added mine. I could see the tents in the distance and Khombu icefall below me, and a foggy area in the distance where the climbers started. The icefall has taken many in it were tragedy has struck and I thought of those people as I looked down. We could hear the glacier shifting and avalanches high above us...one never forgets a sound like that. It was just like I had read, and beyond words. The sun had come out for us and we were the only group there...the holy mountain was welcoming us! We were surrounded by the mighty Himalayas...what a sight. We were at 5364m, and each and every one of us had a smile. Gareth stepped away from his nausea for a few minutes and stripped naked to run through camp...it was planned but I think I was the only one who believed he would do it....I had 2 cameras ready to go:)
We didn't go to the tents as it was about another 30-60 minute hike, and we were limited in time...light was fading and you DO NOT want to be caught in the dark finding your way back to your lodge. We took pictures and took in what we would probably never see for ourselves again and what few have ever seen.
Down we went, had dinner, and went to bed preparing for a 5am "optional" departure for Kala Pathar....a "small" Himalayan peak.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
the rainbow bridge
Dingboche altitude 4410 m
Yesterday when I woke up in Tengboche at 600, I looked out my window and said "looks like a great day to summit Everest"....there was no snow blowing in the jet stream indicating good weather. What a cool thing to wake up, look out your window and see Everest!
We had breakfast and were off to ascend 650 m over 6 hours and 8km. We started out walking through rhodadendrum and coniferous forests, the sun was shining, but that cool himalayan breeze had me with my fleece on. The himalayas are really an untouched paradise. This may be a bit overly dramatic but if you know the poem "Under the Rainbow Bridge"...the landscape reminds me of that. When you lose a pet (as the poem goes) the beloved pet goes to a place called the rainbow bridge where their illnesses are cured, they are young again, it is a perfect place with meadows and hills and streams....when you die you meet them there again. The himalayas are such a paradise that I have expected to see my beloved cat Sammy galloping towards me or my family dog Mackenzie....seriously!
We passed by the Russian climbing team that made summit but lost a team member in the process. Obviously they were moving fast, in a hurry to get down. As we climbed beyond 4000m, trees disappeared, similar to the arctic tundra, low lying juniper shrubs and "tundra" flowers. It was almost like something out of star trek or the old Mad Max movies...beautiful, serene, untouched, yet very isolated with the snow capped peaks of the tallest mountains in the world surrounding you.
We were all moving a bit slower due to the altitude...that and climbing at 45 degree angles for up to 2 hours at a time is what makes this trek a challenge unlike no other. Its probably the most physically demanding thing I have ever done thus far. Gareth and I were talking of trying to summit Everest at some point in our lives....if you were properly trained and got some good mountaineering experience it might be doable. Our team is still great...some are pacing faster than others...i am usually about in the middle. Its not about speed here its about safety. I had to dispense some extra diamox I had (have and extra 2 week supply) to one of the girls, otherwise I am convinced she probably wouldn't make it.
We arrived at Dingboche around 1530 yesterday after what turned out to be an almost 8 hour day, tired. I slept for a bit while the others hung out. We have to pay 380 rupees for a hot shower, which will not even be possible after today. This morning we did our acclimatization hike and climbed 400 m straight up very slowly then down. Gareth and I were straggling on the way down talking about the possibilities for mining in Nepal...the glacier and volcanic rocks are just gorgeous...then we made a plan to write a sci fi book about how nepal becomes a superpower after allowing mining in the Himalayas...maybe we are just altitude crazy! We also tried to collect some yak dung for our guesthouse hosts for fuel for the fire...our assistant guide laughed when he looked in my half full bag I had slung over my shoulder because Gareth and I had actually collected quite a bit of horse poo. Thought that counts!
After descending we ate lunch, some of us did laundry and some showered. I did laundry, as in fill a basin with cold water and hang outside to dry. Then I hiked it up here to the internet cafe which is costing me about $16.00 per hour! Took me about 20 minutes to walk up here breathing heavy all the way. The least little bit of exertion makes one pretty short of breath. I will shower after i get back and prepare to move on tomorrow to Lobuche (altitude 4900 m)tomorrow
WEATHER REPORT FOR DAD
Last night when we went to bed I think it was about +6-8...I had to wear a long sleeve tshirt, s short sleeve, my fleece my lightweight longjohns and hat, socks and snuggle into my -12 sleeping bag
This morning not a cloud in the sky but i added my northface pants to my last nights pyjama ensemble and i was ok...probably about 12-15 i would guess-timate:)
Yesterday when I woke up in Tengboche at 600, I looked out my window and said "looks like a great day to summit Everest"....there was no snow blowing in the jet stream indicating good weather. What a cool thing to wake up, look out your window and see Everest!
We had breakfast and were off to ascend 650 m over 6 hours and 8km. We started out walking through rhodadendrum and coniferous forests, the sun was shining, but that cool himalayan breeze had me with my fleece on. The himalayas are really an untouched paradise. This may be a bit overly dramatic but if you know the poem "Under the Rainbow Bridge"...the landscape reminds me of that. When you lose a pet (as the poem goes) the beloved pet goes to a place called the rainbow bridge where their illnesses are cured, they are young again, it is a perfect place with meadows and hills and streams....when you die you meet them there again. The himalayas are such a paradise that I have expected to see my beloved cat Sammy galloping towards me or my family dog Mackenzie....seriously!
We passed by the Russian climbing team that made summit but lost a team member in the process. Obviously they were moving fast, in a hurry to get down. As we climbed beyond 4000m, trees disappeared, similar to the arctic tundra, low lying juniper shrubs and "tundra" flowers. It was almost like something out of star trek or the old Mad Max movies...beautiful, serene, untouched, yet very isolated with the snow capped peaks of the tallest mountains in the world surrounding you.
We were all moving a bit slower due to the altitude...that and climbing at 45 degree angles for up to 2 hours at a time is what makes this trek a challenge unlike no other. Its probably the most physically demanding thing I have ever done thus far. Gareth and I were talking of trying to summit Everest at some point in our lives....if you were properly trained and got some good mountaineering experience it might be doable. Our team is still great...some are pacing faster than others...i am usually about in the middle. Its not about speed here its about safety. I had to dispense some extra diamox I had (have and extra 2 week supply) to one of the girls, otherwise I am convinced she probably wouldn't make it.
We arrived at Dingboche around 1530 yesterday after what turned out to be an almost 8 hour day, tired. I slept for a bit while the others hung out. We have to pay 380 rupees for a hot shower, which will not even be possible after today. This morning we did our acclimatization hike and climbed 400 m straight up very slowly then down. Gareth and I were straggling on the way down talking about the possibilities for mining in Nepal...the glacier and volcanic rocks are just gorgeous...then we made a plan to write a sci fi book about how nepal becomes a superpower after allowing mining in the Himalayas...maybe we are just altitude crazy! We also tried to collect some yak dung for our guesthouse hosts for fuel for the fire...our assistant guide laughed when he looked in my half full bag I had slung over my shoulder because Gareth and I had actually collected quite a bit of horse poo. Thought that counts!
After descending we ate lunch, some of us did laundry and some showered. I did laundry, as in fill a basin with cold water and hang outside to dry. Then I hiked it up here to the internet cafe which is costing me about $16.00 per hour! Took me about 20 minutes to walk up here breathing heavy all the way. The least little bit of exertion makes one pretty short of breath. I will shower after i get back and prepare to move on tomorrow to Lobuche (altitude 4900 m)tomorrow
WEATHER REPORT FOR DAD
Last night when we went to bed I think it was about +6-8...I had to wear a long sleeve tshirt, s short sleeve, my fleece my lightweight longjohns and hat, socks and snuggle into my -12 sleeping bag
This morning not a cloud in the sky but i added my northface pants to my last nights pyjama ensemble and i was ok...probably about 12-15 i would guess-timate:)
Thursday, May 20, 2010
this is the time of my life
This morning we left Namche Bazar at 0800 to begin our journey to Tengboche....descend 500m, ascend 700 m. I am actually getting used to the high altitude assault on my cardiovascular system or I am having some sort of high altitude euphoria because ascending 700 m over 6 hours and 9k was actually quite pleasant at almost 4km above English Bay. Don't get me wrong it was a challenge, but when I came around a corner and saw EVEREST in full view with the snow blowing off the top with the jet stream, I have to tell you, no words can describe its beauty. I tied a prayer flag to the monument commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Hilary/Norgay Everest summit.
We mostly were walking on switchback paths along mountain edges through coniferous forests and rhododendrons, it was mostly sunny with a cool Himalayan breeze. My trekking poles have been a life saver, I would highly recommend them for any sort of moderate to advanced hiking. I have been able to control my breathing, long breath in , long breath out...just focusing on the breath like yoga has taught me and it has made the most difficult trek in the world very rewarding.
We arrived in Tengboche around 1530, got settled into the lodge...very basic with outdoor bathrooms and shower. We then went to the Tengboche monastery and sat in on a puja with the monks. This place Tencboche is surrounded by the high Himalayas and I can see Everest from my window. It is in a small valley, immediately surrounded by forest and in the middle pasture with grazing horses. Tomorrow, another long day but we will spend 2 days at the next village acclimatizing as we will ascend 700 m to around 4400 m. On "rest" day we will gain 600m and return down.
I am still well...the diamox is making me pee every 3 hours. I even had a beer after we arrived at Tengboche....I said "that is what Canadians do...we work hard then have a nice cold beer!"
We mostly were walking on switchback paths along mountain edges through coniferous forests and rhododendrons, it was mostly sunny with a cool Himalayan breeze. My trekking poles have been a life saver, I would highly recommend them for any sort of moderate to advanced hiking. I have been able to control my breathing, long breath in , long breath out...just focusing on the breath like yoga has taught me and it has made the most difficult trek in the world very rewarding.
We arrived in Tengboche around 1530, got settled into the lodge...very basic with outdoor bathrooms and shower. We then went to the Tengboche monastery and sat in on a puja with the monks. This place Tencboche is surrounded by the high Himalayas and I can see Everest from my window. It is in a small valley, immediately surrounded by forest and in the middle pasture with grazing horses. Tomorrow, another long day but we will spend 2 days at the next village acclimatizing as we will ascend 700 m to around 4400 m. On "rest" day we will gain 600m and return down.
I am still well...the diamox is making me pee every 3 hours. I even had a beer after we arrived at Tengboche....I said "that is what Canadians do...we work hard then have a nice cold beer!"
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